Making Porridge Loaves & More on Gelatinized Starch
Even if you don’t realize it, you are probably familiar with porridge loaves. If you’ve ever eaten store-bought honey oat wheat bread, you’ve had a version of a porridge loaf. While oats are common in these breads, porridge can be made from any starchy food or cereal grain, such as rice, corn, wheat, buckwheat, lentils, cassava, yam, taro, and more.
Why Add Porridge to Bread?
Porridges are hearty and filling because they provide slowly released energy from complex carbohydrates, along with fiber, minerals, and vitamins. When added to bread dough, porridge enhances both flavor and nutrition. The gelatinized starches from porridge act as a natural dough conditioner, softening the dough and reducing gluten chain length. This binding of water keeps bread softer for longer without needing preservatives or stabilizers found in supermarket bread.
The Science of Gelatinized Starch
When starch molecules in porridge are hydrated and heated, they undergo molecular changes:
- Swelling: Starch granules absorb more water as they heat.
- Gelatinization: Molecules lose their crystallinity and become amorphous.
- Bursting: Starch granules burst, forming a gel or paste.
This process occurs at different temperatures for different starches, generally between 51-70°C (124-158°F). Adding gelatinized starches to dough conditions it, creating a softer crumb and less chewiness. However, too much can reduce loaf volume due to gluten interruption.
Making a Porridge Loaf
To make a porridge loaf, start by preparing the porridge. Here’s an example recipe for an oat porridge loaf:
Ingredients:
- Dough (approx. 700g total):
- 150g Janie’s Mill High Protein Flour (50%)
- 150g Central Milling ABC+ Flour (50%)
- 210g Water (70%)
- 120g Oat Porridge (40%)
- 60g Levain (20%)
- 9g Salt (3%)
- Oat Porridge:
- 45g Janie’s Mill Rolled Oats
- 100g Water
Method:
- Prepare the Porridge:
- Combine oats and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a light simmer for 15-20 minutes.
- Remove from heat and spread thinly to cool completely before adding to dough.
- Mix the Dough:
- In a large bowl, mix all ingredients except the porridge, aiming for a final dough temperature of 75-78°F. Combine into a shaggy dough and let it rest for 45 minutes.
- Develop Gluten:
- Use the Rubaud method or French fold technique to develop gluten until the dough is smooth, elastic, and springy. Typically, two sets of Rubaud for 3-4 minutes with a short rest in between work well. Let the dough rest for another 45 minutes.
- Incorporate Porridge:
- Spread the cooled porridge over the dough and dimple it down with your fingertips. Perform a set of stretch and folds to seal the porridge inside. Rest the dough for another 45 minutes.
- Fold and Rest:
- Perform a set of coil folds to evenly distribute the porridge. Rest for another 45 minutes. Assess the dough for strength and windowpane formation. If needed, perform one more coil fold and let the dough rest until bulk fermentation is complete (about 5-6 hours at 75-78°F).
- Shape and Proof:
- Shape the dough, leaving it to rest for at least 30 minutes before final shaping. Moisten the top and roll in oats if desired. Place in a banneton and proof ambiently or cold retard as preferred.
Baker’s Notes:
- The salt level is slightly higher than normal since there’s no salt in the porridge.
- You’ll make extra porridge as some water evaporates during cooking.
- Final dough hydration is about 88%, but it doesn’t feel that wet because much water is bound in the porridge.
Making porridge loaves can seem complex, but with practice, you’ll dial in the perfect hydration and technique. This recipe is a great starting point, yielding a wonderfully flavorful and soft loaf. Experiment with different grains and enjoy the delicious results!
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